Kentucky Part III: the Green River and Cave Country
From Elizabethtown I headed south following Muir’s approximate route to the interesting little town of Munfordville on the Dixie Highway (US Route 31W) and its closely parallel and convenient Interstate 65. Muir continued through a landscape of forests and farms, which he described as the “Barrens” with tall black and willow oaks, and walked on to the “region of caves” and hamlet of the large Horse Cave where he enjoyed the “cave [of the same name] which it supplies with an abundance of cold water, and cold air that issues from its fern-clad lips.”
Today one can visit the Horse Cave and numerous other privately-owned caves (see www.kentuckytourism.com/city/horse-cave ), including Kentucky Caverns, Mammoth Onyx Cave, and Hidden River Cave and American Cave Museum with its state-of-art educational exhibits. The entrance to Horse Cave is located on Main Street in the middle of the community’s business center. You also may wish to shop and enjoy the historic community of Horse Cave, which is located in a basin among surrounding knobs.
Muir walked 10 miles westward to wonder at the opening of Mammoth Cave, now the premier feature of present-day Mammoth Cave National Park. He did not dare to enter into the caverns, but you should enjoy and learn from a cave tour offered by the National Park Service. One can closely approximate Muir’s route to visit the historic entrance to the immense cavern system, along with numerous other caves in the national park. From Interstate 65, exit 58 (Horse Cove), I followed the Fisher Ridge Road, KY Route 218, and the Mammoth Cave Park Road into the northeastern corner of the national park. Note the opportunities along that route or accessed by several other entrance roads into the park to visit minor caves, historic sites and cemeteries, and car ferries over the beautiful and ecologically diverse Green River (which Muir does not mention in his memoirs!). Better yet, one can arrange with local outfitters to canoe or kayak on the Green River, which meanders within the national park and beyond.
The Green River is now renowned as an internationally significant environmental treasure. The 125 mile-long, free-flowing section of the Green River that flows through Mammoth Cave National Park and on downstream harbors one of the most diverse assemblages of fish and freshwater mussels in the U.S. Its protection is a major focus of The Nature Conservancy . Protection of the Green River is also a priority for the Kentucky Waterways Alliance, the Kentucky Nature Preserves Commission, and others.
Muir, while disparaging the large hotel and its gardens built near the Mammoth Cave entrance (now the site of the National Park visitor center and public lodge and camping areas), was impressed:
Today one can visit the Horse Cave and numerous other privately-owned caves (see www.kentuckytourism.com/city/horse-cave ), including Kentucky Caverns, Mammoth Onyx Cave, and Hidden River Cave and American Cave Museum with its state-of-art educational exhibits. The entrance to Horse Cave is located on Main Street in the middle of the community’s business center. You also may wish to shop and enjoy the historic community of Horse Cave, which is located in a basin among surrounding knobs.
Muir walked 10 miles westward to wonder at the opening of Mammoth Cave, now the premier feature of present-day Mammoth Cave National Park. He did not dare to enter into the caverns, but you should enjoy and learn from a cave tour offered by the National Park Service. One can closely approximate Muir’s route to visit the historic entrance to the immense cavern system, along with numerous other caves in the national park. From Interstate 65, exit 58 (Horse Cove), I followed the Fisher Ridge Road, KY Route 218, and the Mammoth Cave Park Road into the northeastern corner of the national park. Note the opportunities along that route or accessed by several other entrance roads into the park to visit minor caves, historic sites and cemeteries, and car ferries over the beautiful and ecologically diverse Green River (which Muir does not mention in his memoirs!). Better yet, one can arrange with local outfitters to canoe or kayak on the Green River, which meanders within the national park and beyond.
The Green River is now renowned as an internationally significant environmental treasure. The 125 mile-long, free-flowing section of the Green River that flows through Mammoth Cave National Park and on downstream harbors one of the most diverse assemblages of fish and freshwater mussels in the U.S. Its protection is a major focus of The Nature Conservancy . Protection of the Green River is also a priority for the Kentucky Waterways Alliance, the Kentucky Nature Preserves Commission, and others.
Muir, while disparaging the large hotel and its gardens built near the Mammoth Cave entrance (now the site of the National Park visitor center and public lodge and camping areas), was impressed:
Arrived at the great Mammoth Cave. I was surprised to find it in so complete naturalness… fortunately the cave has not been improved, and were it not for the narrow trail that leads down the glen to its door, one would not know that it had been visited. …And so also this magnificent hall in the mineral kingdom of Kentucky has a door comparatively small and unpromising. One might pass within a few yards of it without noticing it. A strong cool breeze issues constantly from it, creating a northern climate for the ferns that adorn its rocky front. I never before saw Nature’s grandeur in so abrupt contrast with paltry artificial gardens (of t)he fashionable hotel grounds …the whole pretty affair a laborious failure side by side with Divine beauty. The trees around the mouth of the cave are smooth and tall and bent forward at the bottom, then straight upwards. Only a butternut seems, by its angular knotty branches, to sympathize with and belong to the cave, with a fine growth of Cystopteris and Hypnum.
Visiting the historic entrance to Mammoth Cave in the early evening (a short walk from the park visitor center and lodge), after the crowds of visitors had departed for dinner and lodging, I too enjoyed the cave entrance near dusk in solitude. Its appearance seemed little different from Muir’s description, other than for the paved walkway and handrails leading down to the barred entry gate (serving as a barricade but allowing for egress and entry of bats). The cave opening is an enchanted place, especially when one times the visit to avoid hordes of tourists. Muir does not indicate that he entered any cave. That omission would be a mistake for a modern visitor. I encourage you to tour Mammoth and other area caves for an astonishing experience and education.
I recommend that you follow the park path beyond the historic entrance to Mammoth Cave, walking down slope on the park’s trail system to the River Styx Spring and Green River; then stroll along the river bluff trail through mature hardwood forests and upslope to the overlook into nearby Dixon Cave. This is a lovely walk in the evening or early morning. Linger along the Green River and, if you do not have additional time for some canoeing, at least cross over the river on one of the auto ferries.
>>>CONTINUE ON through more "Noble Forests" . . .
I recommend that you follow the park path beyond the historic entrance to Mammoth Cave, walking down slope on the park’s trail system to the River Styx Spring and Green River; then stroll along the river bluff trail through mature hardwood forests and upslope to the overlook into nearby Dixon Cave. This is a lovely walk in the evening or early morning. Linger along the Green River and, if you do not have additional time for some canoeing, at least cross over the river on one of the auto ferries.
>>>CONTINUE ON through more "Noble Forests" . . .